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Right next door to the Costa del Sol is not where I expected to find a relatively quiet beach side town and an almost entirely foreigner free population, however on our recent Easter holiday to the coast of Almería in Andalusia I was surprised to find myself holidaying mostly, in fact almost exclusively, with Spanish families.
While Spain’s ubiquitous coastal developments do line much of the Almerian coast, smaller communities without high-rise or sprawling apartment developments can be found if you look carefully enough. In the small resort of Puerto Rey, where we stayed, stylish houses with white washed walls set behind bright right red bougainvilleas line the path to the beach. There are no rows of British and German bars.
The bright flowers and green lawns of the towns close to the beach contrast with the surrounding desert landscapes and in the background of this particular area the omnipresent Mojácar, a Moorish hilltop fortress, reminds the visitor of the long Arab occupation of the region, influences of which can be seen and enjoyed throughout Andalusia.
Oviedo is a stunning small city in the North of Spain. It’s the capital of the province of Asturias, a beautiful area of green pastures and rocky mountains. The city is also not far from a patch of coast that boasts some of the most beautiful beaches in Europe and perhaps the world, allowing some residents to claim they have had days of surfing in the morning and skiing in the afternoon. Which would obviously require surfing in the kind of temperatures that make you wonder if you these people are dedicated or just mad.
If you’ve never looked at travelling to the North of Spain but Oviedo is ringing some bells – it may be that you heard of it watching Woody Allen’s film, ‘Vicky, Cristina, Barcelona’ in which it features fairly heavily. Allen’s a passionate fan and the town has returned the love by placing a bronze statue of him in one of the city’s many pedestrian streets around the centre. He joins an impressive and varied selection of statues that dot the city’s centre and includes the gorgeous “La Maternidad” by Botero. As well as an excellent example of loved and appreciated public art, La Maternidad’s substantial, exposed derrier gives children plenty of entertainment. At any given moment there is a small child giggling and pointing. Ah, bottoms. They’re pure comedy.
Like the rest of Spain, we’re on holiday at the beach. It’s our first beach holiday with a child. He’s 13 months, still can’t walk, weighs about 11kg and still likes to crawl all over his parents at every opportunity. The beach does not enhance this experience.
Here’s some stuff you might not know if you haven’t tried to go with a baby or small toddler yet.
So I think it would be fair to say that we have covered airplane travel relatively comprehensively (if by comprehensive you mean in a kind of crappy yet witty and insightful way here , here and here) but there is always the other bit – when you actually get there. Oh yes, the holiday itself. I’ve just been on one and although I know most things in the world, as I’ve mentioned before, a far cleverer friend than me says that every time you travel you learn a new thing about travelling with your children. I think she might be right. Plus, she’s a lot taller than me, and currently about 11 months pregnant, so I usually agree with most things she says, lest she clout me over the ear. Anyway – some tips….